With 4,700 inhabitants, Ilulissat, formerly Jakobshavn, is Greenland’s third largest municipality and a key tourist destination. 250 km north of the Arctic Circle, it is known for dog sledding, musk ox, and caribou hunting – and Sermeq Kujalleq, one of Greenland’s largest glaciers and the fastest in the world. At an average rate of 20 m per day, it pushes...